The side‑button construction is a key part of the design. Years ago, I saw a smock‑style knitting pattern that sparked my creative juices, and the idea stayed with me. When I began shaping this vest, the side openings naturally evolved into something both stylish and practical. They make dressing easier for anyone who finds lifting their arms overhead difficult, offer comfort for wheelchair users who prefer to leave the lower buttons undone to avoid bunching, and provide simple access for breastfeeding parents or anyone who needs to reach feeding tubes or medical devices. What started as a design spark became a thoughtful accessibility feature as the pattern developed.

The name Sunday Brunch comes straight from the waffle stitch. When I was a kid, my mum once brought a waffle maker on holiday, and for about six months afterwards we had waffles every single Sunday morning. I wasn’t complaining. That bright, happy memory felt like the perfect match for this stitch — and for a spring layer that feels playful and easy to wear.

This vest is the first design in a small Sunday Brunch series inspired by the waffle stitch. The vest arrives for spring, socks will follow in the summer, and a sweater/jumper will complete the trio in the autumn.

The pattern is written in US crochet terms and is classed as intermediate, though confident beginners should find it approachable — especially with the accompanying video tutorial. As always, my advice is simple: give it a go. You might surprise yourself.

Below is the video tutorial and a sizing schematic for you to look at. The sizing schematic is also included in the free PDF download of the written pattern.

Sizing info and Schematic Measurements

Recommended Yarn Amount and Button Quantities

Yarn quantities are always an estimate, and your exact usage may vary slightly depending on the brand, fibre content, and how you personally crochet. DK yarns can differ more than you’d expect from one manufacturer to another, so while the suggested amounts should be very close for most makers, it’s always worth having a little extra on hand just in case.

Button quantities are given as the total number needed for the whole vest. Because the design buttons up on both sides, the number may look a little high at first glance — but simply halve it to know how many buttons you’ll use on each side.

FULL PDF PATTERN DOWNLOAD BELOW!

Sunday Brunch Sweater Vest Off The Chain With Jack

8.13MB ∙ PDF file

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It’s called the Elmer Jumper because when I first posted myself wearing it, the comments immediately filled with people saying it looked like Elmer the Patchwork Elephant by David McKee — and the name stuck! Honestly, I love the creative little community we’ve built over there, so naming this after your comments feels like a proper homage to you lot.

My version is packed with bright, joyful colors, but this design would look absolutely class in soft pastels or even a clean, neutral palette if bold isn’t your vibe.

The pattern is available in XS–4XL and is worked entirely on a 4mm hook using double knit yarn, making it the perfect scrap-busting project. There’s no specific yarn requirement or yardage because every brand varies — plus, half the fun is getting creative with whatever you already have.

And yes… consider this a ✨mass pattern test✨. Think of it as one big, cosy crochet experiment we’re all part of. What could possibly go wrong?

The downloadable PDFs below include full written instructions, plus a schematic showing exactly how the squares fit together, with a key that matches each square to the pattern (these are individual to each size). You’ll start in the bottom right of each panel, work left to right, and then build upward through the rows.

There’s also a separate guide (the same for every size) covering the join-as-you-go method, starting the sleeves, constructing the jumper, and working the ribbing for the neckline, cuffs, and hem.

Prefer to learn visually? The video tutorial walks you through all the key techniques — joining the squares, sleeve construction, finishing the garment, and ribbing. It demonstrates one size, but the methods easily translate across all sizes when followed alongside the written pattern.

BASIC Pattern info

Hook: 4 mm
Yarn: Double knit (note no estimated yardage has been provided, all yarn types/brands are different, this is a perfect scrap buster project)
Skill Level: Advanced Beginner/Intermediate

Abbreviations

st = stitch

ch = chain

dc = double crochet

founddc = foundation double crochet

fpdc = front post double crochet

bpdc = back post double crochet

foundfpdc = foundation front post double crochet

dc2tog = double crochet 2 together

slst = slip stitch

WRITTEN INSTRUCTIONS FOR ALL SIZES

The Elmer Jumper All Sizes Pattern Intructions

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INDIVIDUAL SIZES

The Elmer Jumper Size Xs

103KB ∙ PDF file

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The Elmer Jumper Size Small

114KB ∙ PDF file

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The Elmer Jumper Size Medium

100KB ∙ PDF file

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The Elmer Jumper Size Large

115KB ∙ PDF file

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The Elmer Jumper Size Xl And 4xl

149KB ∙ PDF file

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The Elmer Jumper Size 2xl

118KB ∙ PDF file

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The Elmer Jumper Size 3xl

117KB ∙ PDF file

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The idea is a 2-in-1 ribbed beanie that can also be worn as a balaclava — one piece, two ways to wear it. Simple in theory, but surprisingly fiddly to get right.

I’d already made ribbed beanies using only front post and back post stitches before, working from the bottom up and decreasing at the top. I loved the stretch and squish of the ribbing, but the crown shaping was always awkward and never looked quite as neat as I wanted.

So I went back to the drawing board and rebuilt the whole thing from the crown down, using increase rounds to shape the hat. After plenty of trial and error (and a few hook sizes), I finally landed on a version that tapers smoothly to the head with no bunching at the top — and still keeps that perfect, stretchy ribbed texture.

The pattern is worked in 4-ply yarn. I’ve used a 75% wool blend, but you can use whatever fiber blend you like. It features a wide, double-folded brim for extra warmth and structure, whether you’re wearing it as a beanie or pulling it down into balaclava mode.

This pattern/tutorial is beginner-friendly — a great way to learn front post and back post stitches — but it’s also ideal for more experienced crocheters who want something satisfying to work on while watching TV.

You can follow the written instructions below, or crochet along with the full YouTube tutorial on my channel, which is embedded here as well.

Written Instructions

Hook: 3.5mm and 4mm hook
Yarn: 4ply weight wool (I used a 75% wool blend)
Skill Level: Beginner/Intermediate

Abbreviations

• ch = chain

• sl st = slip stitch

• dc = double crochet

• fpdc = front post double crochet

• bpdc = back post double crochet

• foundfpdc = foundation front post double crochet

• founddc = Foundation double crochet

• hdc = half double crochet

• st = stitch

Foundation:

1. Ch 3 and join with a sl st to form a loop (or use a magic loop).

Round 1:

1. Work 1 founddc, then 11 dc into the loop.

2. Sl st into the top of the founddc.

• Total stitches: 12

Round 2 (Increase Round):

I would suggest watching the video tutorial for the increase rounds

1. foundfpdc, then dc into the top of the same stitch.

2. Next stitch: bpdc, then dc into the top of the same stitch.

3. Next stitch: fpdc, then dc into the top of the same stitch.

4. Repeat steps 2–3 around.

5. Finish with a dc into the slip stitch of the previous round, then sl st to the first stitch.

• Total stitches: 24

Round 3:

• foundfpdc, bpdc, fpdc, alternating all the way around.

• Finish with a bpdc and sl st into the top of the foundfpdc.

• Total stitches: 24

Round 4 (increase round):

Again I suggest watching the video tutorial for this round

1. Foundation fpdc, dc into the top of the same stitch.

2. Next stitch: bpdc, dc into the same stitch.

3. Next two stitches: fpdc, bpdc.

4. Repeat fpdc, dc into top of same stitch; bpdc, dc into top of same stitch; fpdc, bpdc around.

5. Finish with a bpdc, then sl st to the first stitch.

• Total stitches: 36

Round 5:

• foundfpdc, bpdc, fpdc, alternating around.

• Sl st into top of foundfpdc.

• Total stitches: 36

Round 6 (Increase round):

PLEASE: Again I suggest watching the video tutorial for this round

1. Foundation fpdc, dc into the top of the same stitch.

2. Next stitch: bpdc, dc into the same stitch.

3. Next two stitches: fpdc, bpdc.

4. Repeat fpdc, dc into top of same stitch; bpdc, dc into top of same stitch; fpdc, bpdc around.

5. Finish with a bpdc, then sl st to the first stitch.

• Total stitches: 54

Round 7:

• Follow Round 5 stitch pattern, no increases required.

• Total stitches: 54

Round 8 (increase round):

Again I suggest watching the video tutorial for this round

• Follow Round 6 stitch pattern.

• NOTE: When you get to the end of the round, the stitch repeat will want you to finish with an increase! DO NOT finish with an increase, watch the video for clarification on this.

• Total stitches: 80

Round 9:

• Follow Round 5 stitch pattern, no increases required.

• Total stitches: 80

Round 10 (Increase round):

Again I suggest watching the video tutorial for this round

1. Foundation fpdc, dc into the top of the same stitch.

2. Next stitch: bpdc, dc into the same stitch.

3. Next 4 stitches: fpdc, bpdc, fpdc, bpdc

4. Repeat fpdc, dc into top of same stitch; bpdc, dc into top of same stitch; fpdc, bpdc, fpdc, bpdc around.

5. As you come to the end of the round you will notice that you should finish on a increase section, DO NOT increase here.

6. Finish with a bpdc, then sl st to the first stitch.

• Total stitches: 108

Round 11-34:

Again I suggest watching the video tutorial for this round

• Follow Round 5 stitch pattern, no increases required.

• Total stitches: 108

Round 35 (breaking for the eye hole):

Girl at this point just watch the video

1. foundation fpdc and then follow stitch repeat of bpdc, fpdc until you have completed 81 stitches and you only have 27 stitches left to work.

Round 36:

1. Turn your work and work a founddc then repeat fpdc, bpdc back round to the start of the row.

Round 37:

1. Turn your work and work a foundation fpdc then repeat bpdc, fpdc back round to the point at which we turned our work (finishing with the fpdc).

2. Now changing your hook for the 4mm hook, ch 27 and sl st into the top of the foundation fpdc you did at the start of the round.

Round 38:

1. (changing back to the 3.5mm hook) foundfpdc, bpdc, fpdc, alternating around until you finish with the fpdc you did before chaining across for the eye hole.

2. Work a hdc into each ch st (27 total) and sl st into the top of the foundation fpdc you did at the start of the round.

Round 39-70:

• foundfpdc, bpdc, fpdc, alternating around, finishing with a bpdc.

• Sl st into top of foundfpdc.

• STITCH COUNT: 108

Finishing:

• Fasten off and weave in ends.

• OPTIONAL: If you want to you can add a round of sc around the eye hole.

• OPTIONAL: gently block to shape.

The Seadog is based on a crochet-friendly take on the classic fisherman’s rib. It’s one of those stitches that looks far more complicated than it is — I’ve even had people ask if it’s brioche knitting! But once you get the hang of it, the texture is incredibly satisfying to work, super squishy, and has a lovely drape thanks to working it in aran/worsted weight yarn with a 6mm hook.

This jumper is designed as a fitted raglan, so it gently hugs the body and follows your shape. If you prefer a slightly looser, more relaxed fit, just size up — it’s very forgiving in that way. The style is contemporary, yet the subtle rustic texture gives it a cozy, seaside-worn charm. Perfect for elevating your everyday winter wardrobe without feeling fussy.

Below, you’ll find a video tutorial and written instructions. I always say: follow the video first, and use the written notes to jog your memory as you go. The Seadog Sweater is designed to be wearable, flattering, and a little bit addictive to crochet — the kind of winter jumper you won’t want to take off.

Sizing information

Like all of my patterns, the Seadog Sweater is designed with flexibility in mind. This is a fitted raglan jumper that’s meant to hug the body rather than hang loosely, giving it that clean, contemporary shape that works just as well under a coat as it does on its own. If you prefer a more relaxed fit, simply size up — the construction makes this easy to do without affecting the overall look.

If you’ve never made a raglan before, don’t panic. It’s one of those techniques that sounds far more intimidating than it actually is. You’ll begin at the neckline and work downwards, increasing at four clearly defined points to create those classic diagonal raglan lines. One of my favourite things about this construction is that you can try the jumper on as you go, adjusting length and fit until it feels right for you.

The pattern includes sizes from XXS to 5XL, based on standard unisex sizing. If you’re making this for yourself, you can rely on your usual size as a starting point. If you’re making it for someone else (or want a bit of reassurance), having at least one key measurement — such as chest circumference — is always helpful to avoid ending up with something a little more… tent-like than intended.

I’ve included a full schematic with measurements below, and I also walk you through exactly how to use it in the video tutorial, so you won’t be left guessing at any stage. Beneath the schematic you’ll also find a yarn estimate chart for each size. Just keep in mind that these quantities are based on the yarn I used and my personal tension — yours may vary slightly.

Quantity of Yarn

A quick but important note before you dive in: yarn usage can vary a lot. I’ve found that the amount of yarn I personally use often differs from what a pattern suggests — sometimes by quite a bit, in either direction. Your tension, hook choice, yarn brand, fibre content, and even how snugly you like to work your stitches can all affect how much yarn you’ll need.

For the video tutorial, I used King Cole Bounty ARAN, which is 100% “premium” acrylic. If you choose a different fiber blend — especially wool, wool blends, or anything with more bounce or drape — you may find the yardage per ball changes, sometimes significantly.

The table below should be used as a guide rather than a guarantee. It’ll give you a solid starting point, but if your budget allows, I’d strongly recommend grabbing an extra ball just in case. There’s nothing worse than being one sleeve away from finishing and realizing you’ve run out… ask me how I know.

Written Instructions

Hook: 4.5mm and 6mm
Yarn: Aran/Worsted weight yarn
Skill Level: Intermediate

Abbreviations

• ch = chain

• sl st = slip stitch

• sc = single crochet

• fsc = foundation single crochet

• sc2tog = single crochet 2 tog

• dc = double crochet

• fdc = foundation double crochet

• fpdc = front post double crochet

• bpdc = back post double crochet

• foundfpdc = foundation front post double crochet

• foundbpdc = foundation back post double crochet

• pdc3tog = post double crochet 3 together

• st = stitch

• fdc = foundation double crochet

• V-Stitch = double crochet, chain 1, double crochet in the same space

Collar

NOTE: I will say this through out but watch the you tube tutorial. It will be super helpful and I explain things way better.

1. Using the 4.5mm hook chain 17 and sc into the second chain from the hook.

2. sc into each chain stitch along

3. Turn your work and either chain 1 OR fsc into the last stitch of the previous row.

4. sc into the back loop only of the remaining stitches from the previous row.

5. REPEAT steps 3 and 4, 78 more times (80 total rows)

6. making sure the right sides are facing each other and there isn’t a twist in your collar, sl st the 2 ends together to create a single loop

7. changing to your 6mm hook and folding the loop in half length ways (watch the video tutorial) ch 1 and then sc the two long edges together working into the side of each row until you reach back to the point you started.

8. sl st into the ch 1 you started your round with.

You should have 80 sc all around

Round 1:

NOTE: Watch the video, I’m always going to say it so I’ll say it again.

1. Work 1 fdc into the chain you slip stitched into

2. dc into the next 23 sc stitches

3. V-Stitch in the next sc stitch

4. dc in the next 15 sc stitches

5. V-Stitch in the next sc stitch

6. dc into the next 23 sc stiches

7. V-Stitch in the next sc stitch

8. dc in the next 15 sc stitches

9. dc into the same space as the fdc you did at the start, place a sc into the top of the fdc you did at the start of the round.

Round 2 (we are starting to increase):

NOTE: NOTE: This is an increase round and all rounds after this will be increase rounds until you break for the body/arms. Again I would say watch the video tutorial as it gets explained much better. Do not turn your work, we will be continuing working in the round.

1. Place a fdc into the gap you have just created by sc into the top of the fdc from the previous row

2. fpdc, bpdc alternating until you reach the chain 1 gap created by the next V-stitch of the previous round

3. V-stitch into the chain one space of the V-stitch of the previous round

4. repeat steps 2 and 3 until you get back to the start of the round

5. dc into the same space as the fdc you did at the start, place a sc into the top of the fdc you did at the start of the round.

Round 3 (increases continue):

NOTE: We are essentially repeating round 2, however your alternating

1. Place a fdc into the gap you have just created by sc into the top of the fdc from the previous row

2. bpdc, fpdc alternating until you reach the chain 1 gap created by the next V-stitch of the previous round

3. V-stitch into the chain one space of the V-stitch of the previous round

4. repeat steps 2 and 3 until you get back to the start of the round

5. dc into the same space as the fdc you did at the start, place a sc into the top of the fdc you did at the start of the round.

Round 4 (and onwards for now):

NOTE: Give the video tutorial a watch to understand how to use the schematic and measure size.

1. Repeat round 3 until your jumper has met the required measurements (Measurement A pit to pit) for the size you are wanting to make.

German short rows:

NOTE: Again the video tutorial will do a better job explaining this, we are going to use German short rows to make the back slightly longer and help with fit and shaping

1. This first row is worked in the same way as you would an increase round. fdc into the corner space you have just created and then continue working, your repeating fpdc, bpdc until you reach the next V-stitch.

2. In the V-stitch place a dc and turn your work.

3. do a fdc or foundfpdc (depending on your fpdc/bpdc repeat) and then continue to work back along the additional row you have just created until you get back to the start of the round.

4. You should have now added in 2 additional rows on the back of the jumper.

Closing the arm hole:

NOTE: You should now have 2 additional rows at the back of your jumper. I’ll say it again as well, the video tutorial will help you here..

1. Without fastening off your yarn from your german short rows, ch 2 and sl st into the centre of V-stitch at the other end of the shorter (arm) side of the jumper and fasten off, cutting your yarn with a 6 inch tail..

2. Place a slip knot onto your hook, place your hook into the top of your German short row (the other side on the back of the jumper), sl st then ch 2 and sl st into the the centre of V-stitch at the other end of the shorter (arm) side of the jumper. DO NOT FASTEN OFF, WE ARE GOING TO CONTINUE AND WORK THE BODY FROM HERE.

Working the body (Round 1):

NOTE: Watch the video, I explain the first round so much better

1. Work a foundfpdc or foundbpdc depending on the way your repeat has ended. This is around one dc stitch from the V-stitch of the previous round.

2. Follow the fpdc, bpdc repeat all the way across to the other arm pit.

3. Place 2 dc around the chains you added into the arm pit.

4. Continue working the fpdc and bpdc repeat all the way along until you reach the armpit join we started the round with, place 2 dc around the chains you added into the armpit.

5. sl st into the top of the foundfpdc or foundbpdc you did at the start of the round.

Round 2 (this is the body repeat round):

1. foundfpdc or foundbpdc depending on which stitch your repeat starts with.

2. continue your fpdc, bpdc repeat all the way around.

3. sl st into the top of the foundfpdc or foundbpdc you did at the start of the round.

Repeat ROUND 2 until your jumper reaches either measurement B (pit to bottom) or you try it on and like the length. Remember you will be adding a ribbed cuff at the bottom that will be about 2 inches so don’t make it to long if not using the measurement schematic.

The Bottom cuff/ribbing:

NOTE: As I always say, give the video a watch. This is joined as you go to the body edge.

1. Change back to your smaller hook (4.5mm)

2. ch 9 and then sc into the second chain from your hook and in each ch across.

3. sl st into the next 2 stiches of the body edge and turn your work

4. skipping the 2 sl st, sc into the back loop only of each stitch along, ch 1 and turn your work

5. sc into the back loop only of each sc of the previous row, sl st into the next 2 stitches of the body edge and turn your work.

Repeat steps 4 and 5 until you have worked around the entire bottom edge of your jumper

Once you make it back to the start fasten off your work leaving a long tail. Use this tail to seam the 2 edges together, fasten off and weave in the remaining tail.

The arms:

NOTE: Remember to change back to your 6mm crochet hook for this section until you get to the cuffs. ALSO we are going to continue working in the round so keep your make sure that your jumper is the right way round. Watch the video, I explain it way better there.

Round 1:

1. Changing to you 6mm hook, place a slip knot on your hook.

2. Work a fdc into the between the 2 dc you placed into the arm pit when working the body.

3. Work DC into the next space along.

4. Work a fpdc or bpdc depending on the stitch your repeat starts with and continue working all the way around doing your fpdc/bpdc repeat until you get to the point at which your german short rows start.

5. Working down the side of the short rows add in additional stitches, working towards the arm pit.

6. place a final dc into the space at the side of the dc you worked. You should have 3 dc worked around the chains you added into the armpit.

THIS IS IMPORTANT SO DO READ IT! Count your stitches in this round! You want to make sure it is an even number or your fpdc/bpdc repeat will not work!

ALSO you want to make a note of how many stitches are in your first round so that when you make your second sleeve you can make sure you have the same amount of stitches in your first round so your sleeves are the same size.

Round 2 (normal round):

1. Working either a foundfpdc or foundbpdc based on what your repeat needs to start withwork a round of fpfc, bpdc repeat, sl st into your foundation stitch.

2. Contine to work a round of fpfc, bpdc repeat

3. sl st into your foundation stitch.

Round 3 (decrease round):

NOTE: Watch the video for help with understanding how to do a pdc3tog (post double crochet 3 together)

1. work your foundfpdc or foundbpdc

2. pdc3tog, continue working the repeat fpdc, bpdc until you have 3 stitches left

3. pdc3tog, sl st into your foundation stitch.

Round 4 onwards:

Work two normal rounds of stitches (same as round 2) and then one decrease round as a 3 round repeat.

If your making the jumper for yourself you can keep working the 3 round repeat until your arm is at a width you are happy with, NOTE THOUGH, write down what your final stitch count is after decreasing so you can decrease to the same number for your other arm.

If you are making your jumper for someone else then for a nice fit I use the 60% rule. This means that I want the sleeve to finish at about 60% of its original width, for this you will want to do some maths, I’ll show you an example below.

My original stitch count for my arm in the video was 70 stitches in a round.

I take the 70 stitches and divide this number by 100

70 ÷ 100 = 0.7

I then take that 0.7 number and times it by 60 to get 60%

0.7 x 60 = 42

So I will keep decreasing my sleeve until it is 42 stitches in the round.

Once you have finished decreasing:

Repeat Round 2 (normal round) until your arm reaches the required 18 inches (measurement B on the schematic) or you try your jumper on the arm reaches your desired length.

The sleeve cuff:

NOTE: Change now to your smaller (4.5mm) crochet hook. This will help to tighten the arm hole. Also again look at the video, its much better at explaining it.

1. fsc in the same stitch you sl st into at the end of your last round, sc in the next stitch and then sc2tog

2. repeat the pattern of sc, sc, sc2tog until you get back to the start of the round. If you find your stitch count does not allow for you to finish the 3 stitch repeat, don’t worry just finish where you end up.

3. sl st into your fsc

Working the cuff, this is the same as working the bottom ribbing at the bottom of the jumper:

1. ch 9 and then sc into the second chain from your hook and in each ch across.

2. sl st into the next 2 stiches of the body edge and turn your work

3. skipping the 2 sl st, sc into the back loop only of each stitch along, ch 1 and turn your work

4. sc into the back loop only of each sc of the previous row, sl st into the next 2 stitches of the body edge and turn your work.

Repeat steps 4 and 5 until you have worked around the entire bottom edge of your jumper

Once you make it back to the start fasten off your work leaving a long tail. Use this tail to seam the 2 edges together, fasten off and weave in the remaining tail.

REPEAT THE ARM INSTRUCTIONS FOR YOUR OTHER ARM.

Weave in all your ends and you now have a finished Seadog Sweater.

I wrote this pattern a long time ago after a few very specific (and honestly slightly rage-filled) realizations 😅, and I’m sharing it completely for free. At the time I was still fairly early in my crochet journey and really wanted to create something that felt achievable, wearable, and gift-worthy without needing to master a million complicated techniques first.

The biggest realization?
I HATE crocheting in the round.

No matter what I did, I could never get things to line up properly. I always ended up with a wonky seam that twisted off to the side and made everything look just a bit… wrong. And of course, every cute and simple mitten pattern I found was worked in the round. Rude.

Around the same time, I came across a fabric mitten pattern piece that showed how mittens are cut to create a really nice, well-fitting shape — and that’s when it clicked. I could 100% crochet that shape.

That was the lightbulb moment. I realized I could combine the two ideas into a beginner-friendly mitten pattern that didn’t require working in the round at all — so that’s exactly what I did.

This pattern uses mostly beginner stitches, with a few slightly more intermediate variations mixed in to add shape and personality. Don’t worry though — all of the stitches are very approachable, and there are loads of tutorials on YouTube and TikTok if you need a refresher. I don’t currently have a tutorial for this pattern on my own YouTube channel, but it’s definitely something I plan to add in the near future.

My hope was that even as a beginner, you’d be able to make a great accessory that you could actually wear (or proudly gift).
Each size is available as a downloadable PDF below - all of the pattern information come first so make sure to give it a read (this is also downloadable if you want as well), so you can easily save or print the size you need.

Notes

• This pattern is written using US crochet terminology.

• Each mitten is made as one flat piece, which is then single crocheted (SC) together, with the cuff added afterward.

• Both the right and left mitten are made the same way. It’s how they are folded and constructed that determines which is which. Once you’ve sewn one together, it should be much clearer how to make the second one the opposite way.

• When counting stitches in each row, make sure to include the Chain 1 at the start of each row. If you get to the end of a row and find yourself one stitch short, double-check that you’ve worked into the Chain 1 from the previous row.

Sizes

This is a unisex pattern available in Extra Small, Small, Medium, Large, and Extra Large.

• Extra Large was designed to fit an adult man with large hands

• Most men will likely fit a Large

• My Mum and Sister both fit the Medium

• Small and Extra Small are best suited for children

If you’re unsure what size to make, a good trick is to crochet up to around Row 18 (Row 18 for XL, fewer rows for smaller sizes), lay the piece flat, and place your hand on top. At this point you’re not too far into the pattern, and it should give you a good idea if the mitten will be too big or too small.

Alternatively, you can adjust the number of chains in Row 1 and Row 11, but if you do this, keep in mind that you’ll need to adjust the pattern later so the two sides of the thumb still meet correctly.

Gauge

Gauge can feel a bit confusing as a beginner, but it’s actually really useful for making sure your finished mittens fit the same way mine do.

The easiest way to understand gauge is by making a gauge swatch. For this pattern, that means crocheting 24 rows of single crochet with 20 stitches in each row.

Once finished, your swatch should measure roughly 10cm x 10cm.
If it’s much bigger or smaller, you may want to try loosening or tightening your tension.

Recommended Gauge:
10cm x 10cm
20 Single Crochet stitches x 24 rows

Reading the pattern

Normally Patterns guide you through different sizes by including the different numbers of stitches needed for each size in brackets after each instruction. However, this can sometimes be harder to follow (especially if this is your first time following a pattern) and so instead, for this pattern, I have simply included each size as its own self contained pattern.

If you have never read a pattern before then see the below breakdown that explains how each line is written.

Stitches used and abbreviations

CH = Chain

SC = Single Crochet

2 SC in the next Stitch/INC = Increase

SC2TOG/DEC = Single Crochet 2 together

HDC = Half Double Crochet

FPDC = Front-post Double Crochet

BPDC = Back-post Double Crochet

FPDC2TOG = Front-post Double Crochet 2 Together

BPDC2TOG = Back-post Double Crochet 2 Together

Supplies

4mm Crochet Hook

Double Knit Yarn 100g approx for 2 XL mittens (in any color you choose)

Yarn/Darning needle (for weaving in the ends)

Construction Overview (Important!)
Before diving into sizes and stitch counts, here’s what the mitten looks like when worked flat. Each mitten is crocheted as a single flat piece, then folded and sewn to create the finished shape.

PDF downloads:

The Simple Seam Mittens Pattern Information

558KB ∙ PDF file

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Extra Small Simple Seam Mittens Pattern

234KB ∙ PDF file

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Size Small Simple Seam Mittens Pattern

228KB ∙ PDF file

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Size Medium Simple Seam Mittens Pattern

231KB ∙ PDF file

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Size Large Simple Seam Mittens Pattern

232KB ∙ PDF file

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Size Xl Simple Seam Mittens Pattern

237KB ∙ PDF file

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But then my crochet brain had a breakthrough.

I’d been working with 4ply (fingering weight) yarn on a completely different project when I noticed something interesting: the thinner the yarn, the more “sock-like” the fabric could become. The stretch, the comfort, the drape — all suddenly made sense. A bit of experimenting later, mixing front and back post double crochets with good old single and half double crochet, and this gorgeous ribbed texture appeared. And not just any texture — it looked remarkably like traditional fisherman’s rib, the kind you’d see on old jumpers worn by sailors and fishermen battling the sea breeze.

And that’s how Sailor Socks got their name.
A little nautical, a little nostalgic, and the perfect nod to the stitch texture that inspired them.

Now, let me be upfront: crochet socks and knit socks will never be exactly the same — the stitches just behave differently. But if you’re an intermediate crocheter who likes a bit of a challenge and wants to build new skills, this pattern is a brilliantly satisfying adventure. Plus, it’s based entirely on measurements, which means you can make these socks for any size foot. If you’re making them for yourself, you can try them on as you go. If you’re making them for someone else, I’ve put together a measurement chart (aka: my pride and joy) to help you get the perfect fit without needing to kidnap their feet.

A quick word about yarn: most pairs use around 150g, but I always recommend buying two balls or skeins just to be safe — running out mid-heel is traumatising, trust me. I personally prefer using yarns with a high natural wool content. They’re warmer, cozier, and they soften beautifully over time. They even felt just the tiniest bit with wear, which makes the socks feel extra snug, cushy, and downright yummy.

The pattern itself is a smidge more intermediate simply because it uses lighter yarn and is worked in the continuous round, which can feel a bit fiddly if you’ve never tried it before. But don’t let that scare you — once you get into the rhythm, it’s wonderfully meditative.

As always, you’ll find a full video tutorial below, along with the written instructions if you prefer following along that way (though personally, I think the video wins this round). And just under the video, you’ll find the size chart and schematic. I go through exactly how to use it in the tutorial too, in case you want a more in-depth explanation.

So grab your yarn, pop the kettle on, and get ready to make your new favourite pair of socks — sailor-approved rib and all.

IMPORTANT NOTE: In my testing and research I have found that it is best to SIZE DOWN when making the socks. I am typically a size 10 but a size 9 sock works best for my feet.

SIZE CHART

Written Instructions

Hook: 3mm and 2.5mm
Yarn: 4ply/fingering weight yarn (200g)
Skill Level: Intermediate

Note: You can actually use whatever yarn/hook size you like as long as your reaching the right measurements but in the video tutorial I am using 4ply, I have made them with double knit as well and they are still lush.

Abbreviations

• ch = chain

• sl st = slip stitch

• sc = single crochet

• fsc = foundation single crochet

• dc = double crochet

• fdc = foundation double crochet

• hdc = half double crochet

• hdc2tog = half double crochet 2 together

• fpdc = front post double crochet

• bpdc = back post double crochet

• foundfpdc = foundation front post double crochet

• st = stitch

IMPORTANT NOTE: In my testing and research I have found that it is best to SIZE DOWN when making the socks. I am typically a size 10 but a size 9 sock works best for my feet.

THE TOE

Row 1:

Ch 10

1. sc into the second chain from the hook and into each chain along

2. place 3 sc into the last ch using them to turn round the end

3. sc back along the chain placing a st into each ch

4. finish the round by placing a sc opposite the first sc you did of the round and then a sc into the chain that makes up the first stitch of the round

Row 2:

NOTE: Watch the video tutorial, I think explaining it in writing doesn’t do the instruction justice.

Have a look at the increase rounds on the Youtube tutorial for support, we are working in continuous rounds meaning we wont be using slip stitches:

1. Place 2 sc into the first sc of the previous round (place a stitch marker in between your 2 sc that have gone into the same stitch, it will come in handy)

2. sc along the round until you get to the first of the 3 sc you did into the end of the chain

3. In the first sc place 2 sc (put a stitch marker between them)

4. sc into the next stitch

5. Place 2 sc into the third of the 3 sc you did into the end of the chain (place a stitch marker the same as before)

6. sc along the remainder of the round placing 2 sc into the last sc you did into the last stitch (place a stitch marker)

7. sc into the last remaining sc of the previous round

Round 3 (continuing the increase):

NOTE: Again I would highly suggest watching the Youtube video for help:

1. sc in each stitch until you get to your first stitch marker, place 2 sc into the marked stitch and move your stitch marker to the middle of the 2 stitches

2. sc into each stitch along until you meet your next stitch marker, place 2 sc into the marked stitch and move your stitch marker to the middle of the 2 stitches

3. Continue to sc in each stitch round to the next stitch marker, place 2 sc into the marked stitch and move your stitch marker to the middle of the 2 stitches

4. Keep sc into each stitch along until you get to your last stitch marker, place 2 sc into the marked stitch and move your stitch marker to the middle of the 2 stitches

Round 4-End of Toes (the remainder of the toe):

1. Keep repeating round 3 placing increases on each of stitch markers and moving the stitch marker to the relevant new stitch.

2. As you finish each round lay your work flat and measure the width (see the Youtube video for support with this).

3. Once your sock reaches 2cm less than the suggested width for the size you are making stop doing any increases and continue working in the round until the toe of your sock measures 5cm in length.

4. Once your toe is 5cm in length lay your sock flat and finish the round at one side of the toe, dividing the sock in half (watch the video, trust me).

NOTE: By stopping 2cm short some sort of crochet magic happens, despite not doing anymore increases your sock will end up being the required width.

THE GUSSET

NOTE: Imma say it again, the video is your friend here.

Round 1:

We are now going to work a round of dc

1. fdc into the sc

2. continue all the way round placing one dc into the sc of the round below

3. sl st into the fdc you started the round with

Round 2:

1. foundfpdc around the first fdc of the round below

2. bpdc around the next st, fpdc around the following stitch

3. continue all the way around alternating bpdc and fpdc until you make it back to the start of the round

4. You will want to finish the round with a bpdc. If you find that your last stich is a fpdc do not worry simply undo it and the bpdc before it. Do the bpdc again but go around the 2 remaining dc of the round below. (The video explains it).

Round 3:

1. foundfpdc around the foundfpdc of the round below.

2. bpdc around the bpdc of the previous round, fpdc around the following stitch

3. continue all the way around alternating bpdc and fpdc until you make it back to the start of the round

4. slst into the foundfpdc that you started the round with.

REPEAT round 3 until your socks length measures the total length required for sock less 8cm.

Example: In the video I am making a men’s size 9.

Total length required 26cm

26cm - 8cm = 18cm

I keep repeating round 3 until my sock measures 18cm total length.

The Heel

NOTE: I would highly recommend watching the Youtube video for this section, I think my written instructions are a bit meh

Now your sock is at the length needed count how many stitches you have in a round and how many rows you have done since the toe and make a note (you will want to make sure that you have the same amount when you are doing your second sock of the pair).

Lay your sock flat and taking half your number of total stitches place a stitch marker at either side of the sock with half your stitches on equally between them.

In the video I have 56 stitches in a round so I put a stitch marker after 28 stitches.

Round 1 (first half):

NOTE: This is an increase round

1. foundfpdc around the same stitch of the row below.

2. place 2 dc into the space between the foundfpdc and the next bpdc.

3. continue to work around doing the bpdc and fpdc as you have been until you get to the last stitch before you stitch marker

4. between the last two stitches place 2dc as you did at the start of this half

5. then do the last stitch before your stitch marker and the half way of the round

6. total stitches for the first half of the round should be half your total round amount + 4.

   Example: Mine was 56 stitches round

   56 ÷ 2 = 28 stitches in half a round

   28 + 4 increase stitches = 32 stitches on one half

Round 1 (second half):

NOTE: When working the hdc for the heel rounds make sure to work in-between the stitches, not into the loops at the top.

1. hdc in between the last stitch of the first half and the next stitch (this is essentially going to put in an increase stitch)

2. hdc2tog to place one st over the next 2 spaces

3. hdc all the way along to the rest of the round, making sure you have half the original total number of stitches for the round (so for me that would be 28, half of 56)

4. sl st into the foundfpdc you started the round with

Round 2 (first half):

NOTE: There is NOT an increasing round. When making the heel you will alternate between increase rounds and non increase rounds

1. foundfpdc around the same stitch of the row below

2. bpdc around the first of the 2dc you added to the previous round

3. fpdc around the second of the 2dc you added in the previous round

4. continue to work around doing the bpdc and fpdc as you have been until you get to 2dc you added into the previous round, continue following your fpdc and bpdc pattern with these 2 additional stitches.

5. Place the final stitch of the first half of the round (will be a fpdc or bpdc depending on number of stitches)

Round 2 (second half):

1. hdc in between the last stitch of the first half and the next stitch (this is essentially going to put in an increase stitch)

2. hdc into the next space.

3. hdc2tog to place one st over the next 2 spaces

4. hdc all the way along to the rest of the round, making sure you have half the original total number of stitches for the round (so for me that would be 28, half of 56)

5. sl st into the foundfpdc you started the round with

Continuing with the heel:

1. Repeat round one and 2, alternating between increase rounds and non increase rounds.

2. As you repeat the rounds, when working the hdc for the second half of the round shift the hdc2tog a long one stitch so that it moves along the row as you work, this helps hide it slightly (watch the video tutorial)

Keep continuing repeating the rounds 1 and 2 until the total number of fpdc and bpdc equals the total original amount, for me this is 56. So I have 56 fpdc and bfdc along one side with the hdc along the other side.

Once you have reached this point measure your socks total length, if it less than the total length required for the size your making, continue doing rounds but without doing any increases until your sock measures the required length for the size your making.

Finishing the heel:

Once you have enough rounds that your sock measures the required length we are now to need to finish the heel.

1. turning to work back along the hdc of the round before

2. fsc in the first stitch and then hdc into each hdc from the round before, ending at the point where the fpdc and bpdc of the previous round start

3. now turn the whole sock inside out

4. folding the hdc half of the sock working the two furthest stiches first, sl st though them and continue to sl st all the way down the folded hdc row until you reach the mid point.

5. cut your yarn and fasten off your work before turning the sock the right way in.

The Ankle Tube

BONUS NOTE: I work the ankle for the same number of rounds as the gusset of the sock + 2 more rounds. If you want longer or shorter ankles feel free to make changes and do more or less.

Round 1:

NOTE: I might sound like a broken record at this point but watch the video!

1. Starting at the back of the heel where you have just slip stitched the two sides together, place a slip knot onto your hook and then insert your hook into the gap between the first hdc and either the bpdc or fpdc you did before you sewed up the heel.

2. From here without removing your hook insert the hook around the post of the the foundfpdc of the previous round and work a foundfpdc

3. bpdc around the bpdc of the previous round, fpdc around the following stitch

4. continue all the way around alternating bpdc and fpdc until you make it back to the start of the round

5. slst into the foundfpdc that you started the round with.

Rounds 2 Onward:

1. foundfpdc around the foundfpdc of the round below.

2. bpdc around the bpdc of the previous round, fpdc around the following stitch

3. continue all the way around alternating bpdc and fpdc until you make it back to the start of the round

4. slst into the foundfpdc that you started the round with.

Once you have got to a length you like. Change to a hook size 1mm smaller and work 2 more rounds, this helps to sinch the top of the sock in a little and neaten it up.

Weave in all your ends, repeat to make another sock and you should now have a finished pair of the Sailor Socks

That was until I stumbled across the V-stitch. Something about those little zigzags instantly reminded me of the tall fir tree forests of North America — sturdy, endless, and a bit magical. I loved the idea of bringing a touch of that wilderness into the sometimes dreary British autumn, where the leaves tumble down, the skies turn grey, and the air shifts with the season. Pair that with a relaxed raglan shape and a deliberately boxy fit, and suddenly I had the perfect canvas for what became the Autumn Harvest Raglan.

This pattern is designed to be approachable — the V-stitch is simple to master, works up quickly, and creates a lovely drape without being too fussy. The boxy fit means there’s no need to stress over precision sizing, and the raglan construction makes it easy to try on as you go. Think of it as your go-to autumn sweater: effortless, textured, and just roomy enough to feel like a harvest hug.

Below is the video tutorial for you to use and below that is some more information on sizing ect and some written instructions. REMEMBER, I do not profess to be a good pattern writer, I would always say follow the video and use the written to jog your memory if needed.

Sizing information

Like all my patterns, this one is designed with flexibility in mind — so you can adjust as you go, make it your own, and end up with a sweater that actually fits you.

Now, if you’ve never made a raglan before, don’t worry — it’s one of those constructions that looks far trickier than it actually is. You start at the neckline and work your way down, increasing at four neat corners that make those classic diagonal raglan lines. The best part? You can try it on as you go, and adjust it until it feels just right. And if you’re making it for someone else (or just fancy a bit of sneaky tape-measure fun while they’re not looking), I’ve put together a handy schematic with measurements below. It’s based on traditional unisex sizing, so all you really need to know is what size they’d normally wear — from XXS to 5XL.

That said, having at least one measurement for them is definitely useful, just to make sure your jumper isn’t going to double as a tent! I also go over exactly how to use the schematic effectively in the video tutorial, so you won’t be left guessing. Below the schematic is also a handy little chart that should help with how much wool to buy for each size as well (remember though that its based on the wool I used AND my tension, yours may be different).

Quantity of Yarn

A big caveat before you read this. I have always found that the amount of yarn a pattern uses can vary a lot for me from what is listed to what I actually use, sometimes its a lot more and sometimes a lot less. It’s hard to gauge and depending on your tension, the brand of yarn you choose and loads of other factors your might find that the amount of wool I suggest is WAY OFF.

In the video tutorial I used batik papatya in colour 35. It is 100% acrylic and so different fiber blends may effect yardage per ball ect.

Anyway, feel free to use the table below as a guide but don’t say I didn’t warn you. I would suggest buying a spare ball to be safe if your budget allows.

Written Instructions

Hook: 4.5mm and 4mm
Yarn: Double Knit (DK) weight wool
Skill Level: Beginner/Intermediate

Abbreviations

• ch = chain

• sl st = slip stitch

• dc = double crochet

• fpdc = front post double crochet

• fpdc2tog = front post double crochet 2 together

• bpdc = back post double crochet

• foundfpdc = foundation front post double crochet

• st = stitch

• fdc = foundation double crochet

• V-Stitch = 2 double crochet in the same gap

• Corner V-Stitch = V-stitch, chain 2, V-stitch

Foundation:

1. Starting with the 4.5mm hook, ch 92 and sl st into the first ch to form a ring (be careful not to twist the chain when you sl st).

Round 1:

1. Work 1 fdc into the chain you slip stitched into

2. dc into the next 32 chains

3. dc, chain 2, dc all in the next chain stitch

4. dc in the next 12 chain

5. dc, chain 2, dc all in the next chain stitch

6. dc into the next 32 chains

7. dc, chain 2, dc all in the next chain stitch

8. dc in the next 12 chain

9. dc into the same chain space and the fdc you did at the start, ch 1 and so a sc into the top of the fdc you did at the start of the round.

Round 2 (the increases and start of the V-stitches):

NOTE: This is an increase round and all rounds after this will be increase rounds until you break for the body/arms. Again I would say watch the video tutorial as it gets explained much better.

1. fdc into the corner space you have just created and then dc into the same space.

2. skipping the first gap between the dc stitches in the round below, place 2 dc into the next space between 2 dc creating a v-stitch (see the video tutorial for a better look at this).

3. Repeat this pattern until you reach the dc, ch 2, dc of the previous round, in the chain 2 space place a corner V-stitch.

4. Repeat steps 2 and 3 until you end up at the corner you started the round at.

5. In the final corner place 2dc, ch 1 and sc into the top of the fdc you made.

Round 3 (the increases continue):

NOTE: The increases continue from this round and in essence it is a copy of round 2.

1. fdc into the corner space you have just created and then dc into the same space.

2. place a V-stitch in between the 2dc you placed into the corner below. Continue on the rest of the side putting a V-stitch in the center of each V-stitch along until you reach the corner V-stitch of the previous round.

3. Place a V-stitch into the 2dc you used to make half the corner below, then place a corner V-stitch (2dc, ch2, 2dc) in the chain 2 space.

4. Repeat step 2 for the remaining sides until you get back to your starting corner.

5. In the final corner place 2dc, ch 1 and sc into the top of the fdc you made.

   ---

Round 4 (and onward for now):

NOTE: Give the video tutorial a watch to understand how to use the schematic and measure size.

1. Repeat round 3 until your jumper has met the required measurements (Measurement A pit to pit) for the size you are wanting to make.

German short rows:

NOTE: Again the video tutorial will do a better job explaining this, we are going to use German short rows to make the back slightly longer and help with fit and shaping

1. This first row is worked in the same way as you would an increase round. fdc into the corner space you have just created and then dc into the same space.

2. Place a V-stitch in between the 2dc you placed into the corner below. Continue on the rest of the side putting a V-stitch in the centre of each V-stitch along until you reach the corner V-stitch of the previous round.

3. Place a V-stitch into the 2dc you used to make half the corner below, then place 2 dc into the corner space from the row below.

4. Turn your work and fdc in between the 2 dc from the row below place a second dc to make a v-stitch. Continue back across the row putting a V-stitch in the center of each V-stitch along until you reach the corner V-stitch where you started.

5. Turn your work again and fdc in between the 2 dc from the row below place a second dc to make a v-stitch. Continue back across the row putting a V-stitch in the center of each V-stitch until you finish by placing a v-stitch in between the fdc and dc you started the previous row with.

Closing the arm holes:

NOTE: You should now have 3 additional rows at the back of your jumper. I’ll say it again as well, the video tutorial will help you here.

1. Continuing on, we are now going to join the front and back to close the arm holes.

2. Skipping, the short side of your work all together, place 2 dc into the the next corner.

3. Place a v-stitch into the 2dc of the corner and continue along the other long side of your jumper.

4. Place a v-stitch into the final 2 dc that are in the corner of the row below and place 2 more dc into the corner space.

5. Skipping the other short side of the jumper sl st into the top of the fdc you started with.

6. Congrats, you have now closed the arm holes and your jumper should look a little more jumper like (maybe).

Working the body (round and round we go):

NOTE: This round is a repetition round, by that I mean you repeat the round until your jumper meets either your desired length or the length stated in measurement B.

1. fdc and then dc directly in between the fdc and dc you did at the start of the previous round.

2. v-stitch into the v-stitch of the round below all the way around.

3. sl st into the top of the fdc you did at the start of the round.

Repeat steps 1-3 until your jumper reaches either measurement B (pit to cuff) or you try it on and like the length. Remember you will be adding a ribbed cuff at the bottom that will be about 2-3 inches so don’t make it to long if not using the measurement schematic.

The bottom cuff/hem:

NOTE: Change now to your 4mm crochet hook. This will add some nice shaping to the bottom of the jumper.

1. foundfpdc in the same stitch you have sl st into on the previous round.

2. bpdc around the next stitch and continue working the round alternating fpdc and bpdc until you get back to your first stitch. sl st into the foundfpdc that you started the round with.

Repeat steps 1 and 2 until your bottom hem/cuff reaches your desired length. I did 7 rounds of fpdc and bpdc and my cuff/hem measured 3 inches in length.

Cut your yarn and fasten off!

The arms:

NOTE: Remember to change back to your 4.5mm crochet hook for this section until you get to the wrist cuffs, also watch the video. I explain it way better there.

Round 1:

1. Making sure your working with the right side facing you put a fdc in the first V-stitch of the round below at the base of the armpit

2. place a dc next to it in the same v-stitch to make your first v-stitch of the round

3. v-stitch into the other v-stitches all the way around

4. when you get to the German short rows you will be working into the side of the stitches, for each additional row worked as part of the German short rows place 2dc (or 1 v-stitch) into the side of the stitch.

Round 2:

1. fdc and then dc directly in between the fdc and dc you did at the start of the previous round.

2. v-stitch into the v-stitch of the round below all the way around.

3. sl st into the top of the fdc you did at the start of the round.

Repeat round 2 until you sleeve measures 7 inches from the armpit.

Shaping the arm (Decrease repeat):

Round 1:

1. fdc ONLY directly in between the fdc and dc you did at the start of the previous round.

2. dc into the next v-stitch along

3. v-stitch into the v-stitch of the round below all the way around until you have 2 v-stiches remaining

4. place one dc into each of the remaining 2 v-stitches and sl st into the first fdc you did

Round 2:

1. fdc into the space between the fdc and dc of the row below, then place a dc directly into the same gap.

2. v-stitch into the v-stitch of the round below all the way around until you get to the last 2 dc.

3. Place 2 dc (v-stitch) into the space between the 2 dc

4. slip stitch into the fdc you started the round with.

Round 3 and 4:

1. fdc and then dc directly in between the fdc and dc you did at the start of the previous round.

2. v-stitch into the v-stitch of the round below all the way around.

3. sl st into the top of the fdc you did at the start of the round.

REPEAT ROUNDS 1-4 OF THE “Shaping the arm (Decrease repeat)” UNTIL YOUR ARMS REACHES THE 17 INCHES REQUIRED FOR THE ARM LENGTH OR YOU TRY YOUR JUMPER ON AND THE ARM REACHES YOUR DESIRED LENGTH.

NOTE: If you are working a smaller size of the jumper and your arm decreases reaches 18 v-stitches (36 dc) total all the way around then do not to anymore decreases but keep working normal rounds until you get 17 inches or your desired length.

The sleeve cuff:

NOTE: Change now to your 4mm crochet hook. This will help to tighten the arm hole. Also again look at the video, its much better at explaining it.

Round 1:

1. Your aim is to make it to 36 stitches total all the way around.

2. Starting with a fdc as we have done for all the previous rounds, however to get to your 36 stitches you will need to do a combination of some v-stiches and some just dc into the v-stitch of the previous round.

3. sl st into your first fdc once you have got 36 even stitches all the way round

Round 2:

1. foundfpdc in the same stitch you have sl st into on the previous round.

2. bpdc around the next stitch and continue working the round alternating fpdc and bpdc until you get back to your first stitch. sl st into the foundfpdc that you started the round with.

Repeat steps 1 and 2 until the cuff reaches your desired length. I did 7 rounds of fpdc and bpdc and my cuff measured 3 inches in length.

Cut your yarn and fasten off!

REPEAT THE ARM INSTRUCTIONS FOR YOUR OTHER ARM.

The Neck Hole Collar:

NOTE: Just watch the video at this point, I’ll try to explain it well but I know I’m going to butcher it here. Also I always make sure to start at the back of my jumpers.

Round 1:

1. Starting at the back of the neckline anywhere you choose place a foundfpdc and continue to fpdc all the way around.

2. When you reach a corner fpdc2tog and then continue working fpdc

3. sl st into the foundfpdc that you started the round with.

Round 2:

1. foundfpdc in the same stitch you have sl st into on the previous round.

2. bpdc around the next stitch and continue working the round alternating fpdc and bpdc until you get back to your first stitch. sl st into the foundfpdc that you started the round with.

Repeat steps 1 and 2 until your collar reaches your desired length. then because we are creating a rolled collar do the same amount of round again so it is double in length.

Joining the Collar:

NOTE: For this step turn your jumper inside out and continue working with the 4mm hook.

1. put your hook through the top of the stitch you have sl st into.

2. then working into the gap between your stitches of the very first row you ever did on the jumper.

3. keep sl st in this way all the way around until you get back to the start.

4. Cut your yarn and fasten off.

Weave in all your ends and now you should have a FINISHED Autumn Harvest Jumper

This past weekend I trotted off to Yarndale in Skipton with a couple of my uni pals who, like me, are never far from a hook, a skein, or a “just one more project” attitude. And let me tell you — it was glorious. Today I thought I’d give you a little run-down:

• a bit about what Yarndale actually is

• a peek at my (accidentally generous) haul

• some overall thoughts on the weekend

So, grab a brew and your current WIP, and let’s chat about all things Yarndale.

You can also watch a video on the thoughts and feelings as well:

What is Yarndale?

Yarndale is basically the festival of yarn, wool, and fibre arts in the UK. Every September, the usually cattle-filled Skipton Auction Mart transforms into a woolly wonderland, and fibre folk descend like magpies.

It runs over two days (this year it was the 27th–28th September) and you can get either single-day or weekend passes. We went on the Saturday, which I think is the busier of the two.

Skipton really is the perfect home for it too. The town has deep sheep-farming roots — the very name Skipton comes from Old English meaning “sheep town”! Back in 2010, a local knit-and-natter group had the bright idea of a festival, and it snowballed into the event it is today: 200+ exhibitors, hands-on workshops, talks, and installations.

Festival Highlights

Walking in felt like being wrapped in a giant ball of wool — stalls everywhere, colour everywhere, people carrying tote bags full of skeins and smiling like they’d just fallen in love (probably with yarn, but who’s to say).

One husband I overheard summed it up perfectly: “It’s all just lots of wool.” He wasn’t wrong, but oh, what wool it was. Different dyeing styles, blends, palettes, and textures — basically endless inspiration.

A few things worth mentioning:

• Workshops and demos: everything from felting to dyeing. I didn’t book onto any this time, but they looked fab.

• Community projects: most famously, the Yarndale bunting. People from 31 different countries sent in crochet triangles, which were stitched together by local makers into bunting that now festoons the hall. The sense of shared creativity was everywhere.

• Newcomer bursaries: since 2022, Yarndale has offered a bursary (now dedicated to the memory of Amanda Bloom & Jenny Machin) to help new creative businesses exhibit. I loved that touch — it keeps the show fresh and supports makers who might otherwise not get the chance.

The Haul (aka “Oops, My Bag Is Heavier Than It Was”)

Alright, let’s talk purchases. With over 200 stalls, the danger was real, but here’s what I couldn’t resist:

• Harrogate Yarn Company – snagged two balls of King Cole vintage sock yarn (£5 for both!). I don’t know what they’ll be yet, but I loved the colours. Stash fodder is valid.

• Siobhan’s Crafts – neon-bright skeins everywhere, but I went seasonal and instead picked up the cutest Lady and the Tramp stitch markers (£6.50).

• Yew Tree Crafts – I splurged here (£50 for two project bags) but they’re beautifully quilted and festive, plus they’re Brummie-based, which made me smile.

• Farm Crafts – discovered “art yarn” (short 2.5m spun lengths, like fancy ribbon). Didn’t buy, now regret it. Sue, if you’re reading this, I’ll be back.

• Martin House Hospice – entered their knitted sock tombola (lost), but my friend Chloe won a ball of yarn she didn’t want, so I adopted it. Charities had a lovely presence here — Oxfam even ran the bag drop.

• Ducky Darling Yarns – possibly my favourite stall. They had machine-knit sock tubes (SO clever — you just add heels and toes). I restrained myself but did grab a set of mini skeins (£25). Christmas wishlist: one of those sock tubes.

• Joe’s Toes – slipper-making kits with proper soles (leather, suede, even Vibram). Didn’t buy because… unfinished project guilt. But I adored the idea.

• Buttoned Up – porcelain buttons galore, like a pick n mix for sewists. I couldn’t resist some pig-shaped ones and spent about £20 overall. The ladies running the stall were hilarious, which only made me want to buy more.

• Wee County Yarns – their wall of mini yarn balls was joy incarnate. I grabbed a colour set that reminded me of the ocean and now have dreams of a “travelling blanket” made up of little bits from all over.

Thoughts & Feelings

Pros:

• Amazingly well-organised, even though it was busy. Plenty of seating and chill-out spots.

• Such a wide variety of stalls, from indie dyers to bigger names.

• Lovely, helpful volunteers and a safe, friendly vibe throughout.

• Accessibility seemed pretty well considered — saw lots of people with mobility aids navigating without issue.

• That buzz of being surrounded by people who just get the yarn obsession.

Cons / things to note:

• It’s busy-busy. If crowds stress you out, go early, late, or try Sunday.

• Food options are limited. We picnicked, which worked perfectly.

• Prices: this is an artisan event, so you’ll see skeins upwards of £20. Absolutely worth it for the work and quality, but if you’re newer to yarn crafts, don’t feel pressure to buy big. Take cards, flyers, and inspiration — you can always order later.

Final Verdict

Yarndale was brilliant. My bag came home heavier, my heart came home lighter, and my project list… well, let’s not talk about how much longer that got.

Will I be back next year? 100%. Hopefully with fewer regrets about the things I didn’t buy (looking at you, art yarn and sock tubes).

Until then, my stash is happy, my stitch markers are cute, and I have buttons shaped like pigs. Life is good.

✨ I’ve linked all the businesses I mentioned above so you can check them out if you fancy a browse.

I came up with the idea for this beanie ages ago but it took be bloody ages to work out exactly how to make it work. I had made a beanie hat using only fpdc and bpdc before but it worked up from the bottom and then you decreased for the top and it was just difficult to manage the decreases and it didn’t look super neat in the end.

But I loved the squishiness of the front post and back post stitches and the way the ribbing worked up and made the hat have the perfect amount of stretch and so I vowed to work out how to do it better one day.

So this is the ribbed beanie pattern for anyone who’s tired of hats that bunch awkwardly at the top. After plenty of trial and error—and a few different hook sizes tested—I finally got the increases just right so it tapers beautifully to the head by working from the top down. The result is a snug, comfortable fit without any awkward bulges.

This pattern/tutorial really is ideal for anyone, a beginner can get a couple of new stitches under their belt and anyone more advanced can plod away at it while watching TV.

I personally like to work this beanie all the way to round 38, giving it a wide brim that can either be rolled up for a relaxed look or folded for a double-thickness cozy edge. It’s perfect for chilly days and makes a wonderfully giftable, stylish hat.

You can follow the written instructions below if you like, but equally there is a Youtube tutorial available on my channel for you to follow. The video is also embedded below:

Written Instructions

Hook: 5mm
Yarn: Double Knit (DK) weight wool
Skill Level: Beginner/Intermediate

Abbreviations

• ch = chain

• sl st = slip stitch

• dc = double crochet

• fpdc = front post double crochet

• bpdc = back post double crochet

• foundfpdc = foundation front post double crochet

• st = stitch

• fdc = foundation double crochet

Foundation:

1. Ch 3 and join with a sl st to form a loop (or use a magic loop).

Round 1:

1. Work 1 fdc, then 11 dc into the loop.

2. Sl st into the top of the fdc.

• Total stitches: 12

Round 2 (Increase Round):

I would suggest watching the video tutorial for the increase rounds

1. foundfpdc, then dc into the top of the same stitch.

2. Next stitch: bpdc, then dc into the top of the same stitch.

3. Next stitch: fpdc, then dc into the top of the same stitch.

4. Repeat steps 2–3 around.

5. Finish with a dc into the slip stitch of the previous round, then sl st to the first stitch.

• Total stitches: 24

Round 3:

• foundfpdc, bpdc, fpdc, alternating all the way around.

• Finish with a bpdc and sl st into the top of the foundfpdc.

• Total stitches: 24

Round 4:

• Repeat Round 3.

• Total stitches: 24

Round 5 (Increase Round):

Again I suggest watching the video tutorial for this round

1. Foundation fpdc, dc into the top of the same stitch.

2. Next stitch: bpdc, dc into the same stitch.

3. Next two stitches: fpdc, bpdc.

4. Repeat fpdc, dc into top of same stitch; bpdc, dc into top of same stitch; fpdc, bpdc around.

5. Finish with a bpdc.

• Total stitches: 36

Round 6:

• foundfpdc, bpdc, fpdc, alternating around.

• Sl st into top of foundfpdc.

• Total stitches: 36

Round 7 (Increase Round, same as Round 2):

Again I suggest watching the video tutorial for this round

• Follow Round 2 increase pattern.

• Total stitches: 72

Round 8:

• Repeat Round 6 pattern.

• Total stitches: 72

Rounds 9–38:

• Repeat Round 8 until the beanie reaches desired length.

• INPUT THE ROUND FOR JUST NOT HAVING A BRIM.

• Round 38 gives a generous length for a wide or double-thickness brim if you role it.

• Finish with a final round of sc

Finishing:

• Fasten off and weave in ends.

• Optional: gently block to shape.

This pattern produces a perfectly tapered, stretchy, and lushly textured beanie that hugs the head beautifully. It’s a labor of love, but the snug fit and gorgeous squishy texture make it worth every stitch.

Yes, that’s right — a “maybe-weekly” update from yours truly, designed to give you all the gossip, crochet chaos, and random musings that go on behind the scenes of Off the Chain with Jack. Who knows if it’ll actually be weekly, but let’s pretend I have my life together, shall we?

Sock Saga: The Heel of the Matter

First up on the crochet front: socks. Or, more accurately, my ongoing battle with socks. I’ve been developing a crochet sock pattern, but somehow, despite my best efforts (and a small pub-based intervention), it just does not want the heel to work. I’ve tried. Multiple times. My yarn clearly has a mind of its own.

And let’s be honest, the four pints I had in the pub while wrestling with it probably didn’t help. But you know what? I love just sitting in our local pub with my fiancé, people watching, having a good chin wag, and quietly crocheting away on little projects. It’s one of life’s simple pleasures — and somehow more fun than actually finishing a sock.

I’ve tried knitting socks too, because apparently “knit socks are amazing.” And yes, they are. But they are not for me. My knit socks resemble something a cat might vomit after a bad day. Crochet socks, however, I’m determined to master… eventually.

Autumn Harvest Jumper: Snuggly Success

In slightly better news, I’ve finally nailed a new jumper pattern! I’m calling it the Autumn Harvest Jumper, and honestly, the fit is just lush. It’s a raglan, which means you can tweak it for the perfect fit — but don’t worry, I’ll include full sizing info too.

I was planning to film a video tutorial, but the wool I ordered first just wasn’t quite right. Cue dramatic sigh. I mean, what a shame having to order more wool, right? 😅 The wool I was going to use is just a very odd colour with super short colour changes, and now I just can’t decide what to do with it, but I’ve got 10 ruddy skeins of the stuff. Life is hard.

Keep your eyes peeled and make sure you’re subscribed to stay in the loop — this jumper is one you’ll want to cosy up in as soon as the weather turns, and the new wool I have ordered for the tutorial will be perfect (I hope).

The Best Crochet Beanie Hat EVER

Speaking of cosy, my first pattern/video tutorial is about ready for release. It’s for what I am calling “the best crochet beanie hat EVER.” I know, bold claim. But hear me out — I’ve been making hats like this for years, it’s tried and tested, and I just love the texture and the fit.

The video needs a final polish, then it’ll be ready for the world — and for your head. Honestly, I can’t wait for you all to try it. Hats, friends. Hats.

Heading to Yarndale

This weekend, I’m heading to Yarndale, the glorious annual celebration of yarn, fiber arts, and all things woolly in Skipton, Yorkshire. For those who haven’t been, picture a magical marketplace where you can buy all the yarn, meet fellow fiber enthusiasts, and generally feel very fancy while surrounded by colour and texture.

I’m going with some university friends, and I’m really looking forward to:

• Seeing what all the exhibitors have to offer

• Drinking far too much wine with good friends

• Enjoying all the delicious food Skipton has to offer

Skipton, in case you didn’t know, is an absolutely gorgeous market town — cobbled streets, cosy cafés, and more yarn than you can shake a hook at. If anyone has suggestions for other wool or fiber arts festivals, I’d love to hear them — I clearly need more excuses to buy yarn.

Keep in the Loop

So that’s me for now: socks that refuse to behave, a snuggly new jumper, a beanie that might just change your life, and a trip to a yarn wonderland.

If you want to stay in the loop (ha — see what I did there?), subscribe to my Substack. Expect more updates, more patterns, and soon enough, a full report on my Yarndale adventures — complete with yarn, wine, and mild chaos.

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Hi, I’m Jack, and I’m so glad you’re here!

I started crocheting back in 2015, in the most unexpected of places — a fancy tile showroom where I was working at the time. Amid the shiny tiles and polished surfaces, I discovered that crochet had this magical mix of creativity and calm. It’s peaceful and relaxing, yet also endlessly satisfying, because you’re making something tangible and useful, something fun. My first lessons came from my boss — an incredible woman with big ’80s hair who lived in a giant Edwardian house brimming with her DIY creations. She taught me a stitch or two between customers, and that spark turned into a lifelong love.

Since then, I’ve been hooked (pun intended!). What excites me most about designing my own patterns and tutorials is the freedom to create exactly what I want — whether that’s a scarf of the perfect length and drape, or a piece of clothing that fits just right. I love the sense of control and expression that comes with bringing an idea to life with yarn and hook.

Why Off the Chain with Jack?

The name just felt right — catchy, fun, and a little playful. In crochet, most patterns start with a chain stitch and build from there. That’s exactly what I hope to do with my channel and this Substack: start with a simple idea, then build it into something bigger, fun, and full of creativity.

The vibe I aim for here is warm, cozy, and creative, with a sprinkle of humor — like going round to a friend’s house for a cuppa, only to find that by the end of the night, you’re sharing a bottle of wine and laughing until your sides hurt. I want this space to feel inviting, inspiring, and somewhere you’ll want to come back to again and again.

Who This Is For

I design my patterns and content for everyone. Most of my projects are “advanced beginner” friendly: if you know the basics — single crochet, double crochet, and a few simple stitches — you’ll be able to follow along. My patterns are made to be worked while watching TV, listening to an audiobook, or hanging out with friends — minimal concentration required, maximum enjoyment guaranteed.

What You’ll Find Here

This Substack is a companion to my YouTube channel, Off the Chain with Jack. Here, I’ll share:

• Extra tips and written guidance to support the patterns on my channel

• Sizing info for patterns that come in multiple sizes

• Behind-the-scenes stories, personal reflections, and creative insights

• Occasional style blog posts or stories related to my other content

Think of it as a mix of practical guidance and personal insight — a little bit of everything that helps make crochet more enjoyable, accessible, and connected.

Why I Do This

Crochet, for me, is more than just making. It’s mindfulness, creativity, self-expression, and connection. I love the joy of creating something with my hands, and I want to share that joy with you. I hope this community grows into a space where we can all share knowledge, inspire each other, and celebrate the simple, amazing act of making.

Whether you’re here to learn, create, or just enjoy the journey, I’m grateful you’re along for the ride. Let’s start off the chain together — one stitch at a time!

— Jack

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